Florence Eats (And Drinks!)
If you’re planning a trip to Italy, chances are, you’ve also been mentally preparing yourself for the few extra pounds you’ll be taking home with you. And who can blame you? One of the best parts of going to Italy is the eating and drinking! The first time I visited Italy, I had JUST finished the whole30 1 day prior. I was a little apprehensive about diving back into gluten and dairy- not to mention, sugar and alcohol, and actually thought I would continue to eat pretty clean while away on vacation. After all, my tastes had changed after 30 days and all I craved was healthy, nutritious food. So in my head, even though I was going to Italy, I wasn’t going to overindulge. WRONG. It was maybe 3 hours after landing and I was sampling ALL the pizza and buying blocks of cheese to take back to our Airbnb.. as snacks. As I’m writing this I’m feeling slightly embarrassed by my glutinous behavior, but also, a little turned on by the thought of so much cheese. I may have overdone it for sure, but to be honest, the only thing I learned from this was that the whole30 would just be better if pizza was allowed.
But anyway, back to food. We stayed in the Sant Ambrogio district and a handful of places on my list are in that area. Although we did quite bit of exploring and eating throughout the city, for some reason, our favorite spots were right near our Airbnb. It was a less touristy area, so I suppose that could be why.
I included 13 places on my list- all places we went to and loved- some specifically for the food, others for the location and/or experience as a whole. Florence really is a magical place to explore and eat, so I hope you have fun and your taste buds leave happy!
I macci
First on my list is I Macci! Situated in Sant Ambrogio Market Place, I Macci is a great spot for breakfast! Like most europeans, Italians don’t do big, eggy breakfasts like we do in the States. In Italy, it’s all about the espressos and croissants or biscuits. We stumbled upon I Macci one morning and were drawn in when we saw the spread of pastries and baked goods displayed on their bar and down the side of the restaurant. Everything looked absolutely gorgeous and the cafe was really cute and cozy inside. We assumed it was just a breakfast spot, so when we saw it was hopping in the evening as well, we were certainly surprised. Needless to say, we stopped back in for some wine and snagged a table outside among the many locals. The atmosphere here was super lively and hanging out in the crisp evening air in October with Italian wine was absolutely perfect!
panini semel
This was one of my favorites. I had read that this place was great for grabbing a sandwich and that was honestly enough to sell me on it. I love me a good sandwich. It only got better when I realized it was maybe a 3 minute walk from our Airbnb. DONE. We decided to stop by for lunch one day and actually almost walked right past it. It’s such a small shop! You step in, take one more giant step and you’re at the counter facing a cheery man asking you which panini and red or white wine. There’s a tiny counter half a step to the left with maybe 3 stools and that’s it. It’s very cozy to say the least. Obviously, the shop is more of a grab and go type place. We snagged the stools at the counter while we scarfed our sandwiches, washed them down with wine, and listened to the owner chatting with all his regulars that kept stopping in for their usual sandwich. It was awesome. And the sandwiches- freaking delicious!
malborghetto
Our favorite pizza! And we ate A LOT of pizza while in Florence. It’s what you’re suppose to do, I swear! Well, we were heading back to our Airbnb one night- it was maybe 10pm or something- and decided we should stop for a nightcap. Except instead of a cocktail of sorts, we opted for an entire nightcap pizza. (Did I mention the few extra pounds you go home with?) This was one of those places we kept passing and knowing we couldn’t leave Florence without seeing what it was about. We sat outside since they only had maybe 4 tables indoors, and patiently waited for our pie. Me with a glass of red, Ben with a Dolomiti beer. I can still taste the pizza to this day- perfectly doughy in all the right places and thin and cheesy OH MY GOD. I’ll never forget it. I hope you enjoy my attractive photo- it captures my feelings perfectly.
Hostaria Del Bricco
Across the river, you’ll find an area heavily populated with antique shops, artist studios, and cute little cafes and wine shops. Much quieter than the tourist heavy city center, but still full of life and thriving. It was late afternoon when we were wondering and exploring random roads and came across Hosteria Del Bricco. We were already thinking about dinner and what we should do and something just felt right about this place. I have to give Ben all the credit on this one because he was the one that was totally drawn to it. They weren’t even open for dinner yet and he was in the window scoping it out. The owner came by at the right time and let us look at a menu. There it was! Bistecca Alla Fiorentina- Florentine T-bone steak. This is one of their traditional, Florentine meals that you must try when in town. We were sold and luckily, they were able to squeeze us in between reservations! We popped over to the wine bar a couple doors down, shared a burrata with some wine and waited for our dinner reservation. It DID NOT disappoint. The experience as a whole was wonderful and I’m still so happy Ben found it!
grom
GELATOOOO. Located right near the Duomo, Grom is the perfect place to stop for a gelato while you wander the streets. Their pistachio is dynamite, but I couldn’t just do one- so I went for pistachio andddd coffee on a cone. Absolute heaven. Ben went salted caramel in a cup and savored his wayyy longer than I did. There are loads of places to grab a gelato, but there’s definitely a reason why Grom is more well known!
santarpia
Another victim of our late night pizza stops, Santarpia is located right across from I Macci in the Market Place and serves up Neopolitan pizzas with unique topping combinations. We didn’t get too wild here, but we did opt for yellow heirloom tomatoes and smoked mozzarella and it was absolutely delicious! I’ve since read that Giovanni Santarpia, the pizza genius behind Santarpia left the restaurant this past summer. So unfortunately, I have no idea if these gourmet pies are still top notch, but I do think it’s worth scoping out!
trattoria mario
If the thought of being crammed in next to strangers in a hectic environment doesn’t scare you away, keep reading. This place doesn’t look like anything special- no-frills for sure, but it’s also an institution in Florence. Authentic Tuscan food with reasonable prices keep the crowds coming back for more! Most likely, you will have to wait for a table, but it’s worth it for the experience. We ended up ordering a random smorgasbord of food, including soup, pasta, and even a steak and it was all delicious! You will probably find this place on other various blogs and lists of where to eat in Florence as well- it truly is an experience.
Mercato Centrale
Quick and casual! Mercato Centrale is located in the San Lorenzo Market area, making it a great place to stop for a snack or a pick me up! Before heading inside, check out the outdoor market itself and do a little shopping. It consists of stalls selling leather bags, pottery, clothing, and various souvenirs- so make sure to explore! Once you step inside, into Mercato Centrale, it’s all about the food though! Specialty shops, fruit and vegetable vendors, cheesemongers, wine stalls(!!), and butchers fill the entire space- it’s like if you were to place Mario Batali’s Eataly actually IN ITALY- but better, cause ITALY! Basically, it’s just magical. Load up on truffle oil or balsamic glaze to take home with you and then pick a place to order some food! You really can’t go wrong with a charcuterie board or cheese plate! Wash it down with a glass of wine and you’re ready to take on the rest of the day!
mayday club
Located down a small, quiet lane, Mayday Club is a great place to stop and grab a drink! All kinds of funky decor plaster the walls and create a fun space to hang out and sip on craft cocktails. The menu is extensive and unique and their garnishes are on point! I mean, a strip of bacon was placed over my martini rim and it was an absolute perfect accompaniment! And any place that has free popcorn is a gem in my book! It’s cash only- so make sure to stop at the ATM.
Osteria Il gatto e la volpe
This place is perfect to keep in your back pocket if you’ve spent the day doing all the touristy must dos and are exhausted and starved. Located riiiight around the corner from The Bargello, Osteria Il Gatto E La Volpe serves up pizza and pasta that will satisfy your needs. We ordered a couple of pasta dishes and sipped on delicious house wine and it was perfect after a long day of museums and sight seeing. I do have to emphasize the location being really prime here. Finding a good restaurant in a tourist zone is tough sometimes and if you don’t have the energy to leave the area, this is your place!
entecA alla sosta dei papi
One of the coolest spots to drink wine and just hang out! A glass of house wine- and by the way, you can never go wrong with house wine when in Italy- will cost you 3 Euros and it comes with a few crostini. Seats inside are limited, BUT! just take your wine and little plate of snacks outside and sit in the road. Seriously. Enteca Alla Sosta Dei Papi is located on a quiet side street so everyone just hangs out in the street! There are a couple tables outside, but mostly, people stand or just sit on the ground. It’s definitely a place for locals and maybe why we loved it so much!
Locale
This is the place to either go and splurge orr simply grab a cocktail and dessert. (A cocktail can run you 25 Euros- but the atmosphere is worth it!) Located inside the enchanting Concini Palace, Locale Firenze is an incredible setting. You walk into the dimly lit space and are immediately struck with a gorgeous bar of glowing backlit liquor bottles and living walls of foliage. The ceiling is completely glass and emphasizes the modern touches without overtaking the medieval qualities that is the Concini Palace. The building itself has been around since the 1200s and during the 1500s, was tied to Florentine politics and the Medici family. Before you head out, ask a Locale employee to give you a quick tour of the basement- this is the best part! Check out the original rooms that existed 800 years ago and see where they kept all their wine.
il pizzaiuolo
MORE PIZZA. I know you must be wondering how much pizza we actually ate on this trip and all I can say is that, it really is no one’s business but our own, hehe. But I also may have just lost track myself. Il Pizzaiuolo was one of the first places we went. It wasn’t a late night stop like the others..*uncomfortably looks down at the ground* We actually went for dinner and had to wait a bit to be seated. And the entire time we dined, there were people waiting for tables. The restaurant was cozy and warm all while having a distinct, busy, fast paced, Italian pizzeria atmosphere. The menu had more than pizza on it, but I don’t think I saw anyone eating anything BUT pizza. And rightly so- it was absolutely delicious!
The amount of restaurants in Florence is absolutely insane and I encourage you to go with your gut when wandering and finding new spots. We love doing our research and having lists of places to try, but we also always incorporate places we find on our own as well. And sometimes we like them best :) So explore and have fun! And don’t worry about eating too much- it’s Italy!