When we told one of our recent Airbnb hosts that we were heading to Bratislava, he just looked at us and said, “…why? what’s there?” To be honest, initially we had no idea. I had run across an article in the Times about Bratislava’s rising cafe scene and I think that’s when I made the logical decision that we would go to Slovakia for some coffee. Ben didn’t need much convincing. He’s usually down for anything, and even if he’s reluctant at first, he typically ends up going along with my irrational ideas anyway. Plus, he’s a sucker for European cafes. I should be clear, we didn't just fly out to Central Europe for a cup of Joe. Instead, we just incorporated it into a bigger 10 day trip we were already planning. We usually like to stay put when we travel. Get to know the city, sprinkle in some day trips, and really just get a full, well rounded feel and experience. But this trip was a little different. See, this past year, we decided to get married, renovate our condo in Chicago, sell it, and buy a house in Pennsylvania. Definitely a big year for us. And the reason our avid traveling lifestyle was taking a bit of a breather. Well, we were coming up on a year since we had been abroad and when we decided we were going to pull off a trip to Europe, we kinda went nuts. I’m always telling people to be careful of adding too many moving parts to a trip. Hopping around too much is never enjoyable and you end up wasting precious time. But, after not traveling for a year, I can say, I GET IT. All of a sudden Ben and I were both so anxious to fit everything in cause “what if another year goes by?” or worse- “what if we never get back to Europe?” I’m currently rolling my eyes and cringing as I replay my illogical reasonings for trying to fit 26 European cities into 10 days. 26 is being maybe dramatic, but who knows how far I would’ve went if I didn’t get ahold of myself. We settled on 4, which we were still concerned was too much. At least for us anyway. But it turned out to be the perfect amount to get a taste for each place without feeling rushed. I’ll write about the whole trip later.
But anyway, back to Bratislava. Considering the size of Bratislava’s Old Town, 24 Hours really can be enough time here. If you’re visiting Vienna, Budapest or even Prague, a day trip or overnight can even be done. Trains and buses are quick and cheap.
If you don’t have the time to read through the post, here is a quick list of the covered suggestions:
TO DO / SEE:
Man at Work
Bratislava Castle
Blue Church
Wander Old Town
Michael’s Gate
UFO Tower
WHERE TO EAT / DRINK:
Urban House
Reštaurácia Hrad
Bratislava Flag Ship Restaurant
Zeppelin Cafe and Souvenirs
Bratislavsky Meštiansky Pivovar
UFO Tower
Morning
Although Bratislava isn’t a hot European travel destination YET, you’ll be surprised that they still get their share of tourists- especially if you’re visiting in summer months. That being said, you can most certainly avoid the crowds. The only place there really seemed to be a bit of congestion, was during the day on the Main Street, stretching from Michael’s Gate to Man at Work. And speaking of Man at Work- that should be your first stop in the morning. Also known as ‘Cumil’, this bronze statue of a sewer worker peeking out of a manhole is a big drawl for passersby. Throughout the entire day, there will be a crowd of people posing with him. So the earlier you go, you can grab a photo in peace. Our Airbnb was actually right across the street from Cumil. It was 8:30 when we left for breakfast and not one person had flocked over for pictures yet. After you get the right shot, head over to Urban House for breakfast. Everything in Old Town is super close, so it won’t be a far walk. Urban House is a trendy cafe that seems to be very popular with locals and tourists alike. They have quite a few tables set up outside along the cobblestone Main Street, but also, an adorable cozy inside. If you’re looking to get any work done on a comfy leather couch, this is your place! From avocado toast to green smoothie to pancakes- it’ll satisfy your breakfast needs for sure. Even their Bloody Mary is made with pressed tomato juice in case you’re looking for that liquid morning start ;) From Urban House, head up to the Bratislava Castle. Chances are, you’ve already spotted the castle. Located above the city on a hill, the castle dominates the skyline with its large white rectangular shape and 4 terra-cotta colored corner towers. Use google maps to sort out a route or simply just head up the hill. You’ll reach a flight of steps on your left at some point or you can just continue to the Vienna Gate entrance at the very top, which we preferred. Entrance to the grounds is free. If you choose to do a tour, you can purchase tickets or use the Tourist Bratislava Card. We opted out however. I read quite a few reviews that said it wasn’t worth it and much of the tour is just explaining renovations. Instead, we wandered the courtyard and garden and that was enough for us. Don’t forget to head up to the lookout level in the courtyard for views of the Danube River, the UFO Tower, and even Austria and Hungary. Before leaving the castle, stop over at the Castle Restaurant, Reštaurácia Hrad for a cappuccino and the view. From the outdoor patio, you look out onto the Old Town rooftops and surrounding vineyards in the distance- It’s definitely worth the stop. They have good food too if you’re needing a pick me up or something to nosh on after your liquid breakfast.
Afternoon
Once you’re ready to head out, make your way back down the hill and across town to Blue Church. Again, Bratislava is pretty compact, so across town means a 20 minute walk. Blue Church is the commonly used name for Church of St. Elizabeth. And once you get there, you’ll see why. Spoiler Alert- ITS BLUE. It’s also the cutest little church ever and I want to live in it. Completed in 1913, the Art Nouveau architecture is completely blue in color- everything from the facade, the mosaics, and even the roof! If you choose to go inside the church, you’ll be pleasantly surprised to see the blue trend doesn’t stop outside. It’s definitely a special place in Bratislava, a favorite among visitors, and a great addition to your instagram feed. I’m hoping you’re hungry at this point because next we’re heading to “One of the biggest restaurants in Europe” for lunch. I’m not so sure if this statement is true, but considering they have a sign that actually says that, it must be. Bratislava Flag Ship Restaurant is a great spot for traditional Slovak food and local beer. They do have an outdoor eating area in the front, but I recommend venturing inside and finding the giant beer hall. It may seem like you wandered into a ridiculous tourist trap a few times, but just keep going. If you’re lucky, a man wearing a cloak of sorts will be playing a harp at the top of the stairs. You’ll see him later playing the same harp in business wear on the outskirts of Old Town. Anyway, the menu is huge and has pictures- typically something we try to avoid, but I’m telling you, it’ll be alright. We went for the Slovak Platter for 2 and a side of sausages to share. The platter consisted of an outrageous amount of potatoes. And it was DELICIOUS. There were three different kinds- dumplings with sheep cheese (a traditional Slovak dish), dumplings with cabbage and bacon (my personal favorite), and pierogis with sheep cheese. The dumplings have a consistency and texture similar to a Wisconsin cheese curd, but tastes almost like noodles. Don’t forget to order a local beer, and save room for dessert at Zeppelin Cafe and Souvenirs back in Old Town. Zeppelins is located on that busy street I mentioned earlier and they’re known for their desserts. As soon as you walk in, you’ll be greeted by the cutest little souvenir shop and the friendliest staff. If you’re there for the cake and not messing around, head straight back to the cafe and marvel at all the beautiful treats. We decided on the blueberry cheesecake THAT HAD MERINGUE on it. A cheesecake in Europe is quite different than the US by the way. The cheese they use for pastries and cakes is more of a cottage cheese, which makes it less sweet and creamy but oh so good!
Evening
Making time to explore Old Town is an absolute must. And walking off that cake probably isn’t a terrible idea either. Make sure to check out Michael’s Gate, which is the only preserved City Gate dating back to Medieval times and one of the oldest buildings in Old Town. Today, a museum of medieval fortification is located inside the tower and luxury stores line the street below. You can also check out the Old Town Hall, which used to be the residence of the mayor in medieval days. When you’ve had your fill, head back to the Airbnb for some downtime and/or freshen up for your evening. One of the best meals we had on our entire 4 country trip was at your dinner destination- Bratislavsky Meštiansky Pivovar. Serving up some delicious food and brews to mostly locals and the occasional visitor, it’s no wonder Bratislavsky Meštiansky Pivovar is still in business since it opened in 1752. We had initially planned on scoping out the brewpub and ordering some beer before finding dinner, but we ended up staying for food and boyyyy, I AM SO GLAD. Ben ordered the ribs and I ordered the duck leg confit. Both of us were blown away and definitely in our happy place. Ben’s dish came with pickled mixed vegetables and mine came with stewed red cabbage, Slovak Loksha, and Carlsbad dumpling. The loksha is a Slovak potato pancake thats super thin and similar to roti bread and the Carlsbad dumpling was almost like hash browns. I can’t rave about this place enough. Try to sit outside in their beer garden. Last stop for your fully packed day is the UFO Observation Deck for a nightcap. When I initially read about the UFO Observation Deck I didn’t actually think it would resemble a UFO.. but rather, just a name for a 360 degree bar/restaurant. But then, from the castle lookout level, I saw a flying saucer looking structure on top of the bridge and immediately knew why it was coined the UFO. Take the elevator to the top or if you’re motivated, you can walk the 430 steps. Once there, order a cocktail and sit back. Take in the panoramic views and just enjoy. It’s not everyday you get to look out on three countries from your barstool.
Soviet rule in Slovakia lasted for 4 decades and evidence is in the architecture. Many buildings reflect a futuristic post modernism style while others relay an almost post apocalyptic vibe. When you see these buildings, you experience a mix of wow factor and terror. As you wander the different areas outside Bratislava’s Old Town, take notice of the architecture.