Oddly, the more I seem to know a city, the harder time I have writing up 24 hour itineraries. It’s almost this feeling of guilt having to decide if a place is going to “make the cut”or not. Edinburgh is definitely a challenge for me. Being my favorite city, I want to tell you to never come for just 24 hours. But I also know that’s just how it works sometimes and if you only have a day, you want to make the most of it. In my 24 hour itineraries for European cities, I typically recommend places mostly in the Old Towns. I feel they have a lot of character and the history alone is a giant wow factor. That being said, if you have longer than 24 hours, I highly suggest exploring outside Old Town. Wander through New Town, down to Leith, check out the charity shops in Stockbridge- there’s really so much to see and explore. But since we’re on a time restraint, we’ll be spending most our time in the Old Town. It’ll give you a feel of the medieval city and staying put in Old Town will help you see more instead of wasting time with taxis and public transportation. I suggest booking yourself an Airbnb or hotel in the area so you can do your exploring on foot. If you come into the Waverley train station, you can easily walk up to Old Town via one of the few alleyways of stairs or simply head up Cockburn Street. If you’re coming in from the airport, just head outside Arrivals and catch the Airlink 100 bus into the city. Tickets can be purchased from the booth next to the bus and will run you 4 pound 50. The bus will drop you off right at Waverley Train Station.
If you don’t have time to read the entire post, here’s the short list and top recommendations. The itinerary doesn’t fit all of these sights in, but rather, may give options:
To Do / See:
Princes Street Gardens
Scott Monument
Wander Old Town
Royal Mile
St. Giles Cathedral
Heart of Midlothian
Cockburn Street
Victoria Street
Grassmarket
Greyfriars Kirkyard
Greyfriars Bobby
Edinburgh Castle
Mary King Close
Arthur’s Seat / Salisbury Crags
Palace of Holyroodhouse
Scottish Parliament
Calton Hill
National Monument
Nelson Monument
Free Ghost Tour
TO Eat / Drink:
Edinburgh Larder
Elephant House
Under the Stairs
Devils Advocate
Amber
Royal Oak
Morning
Rise and shineee! You’re in the most beautiful country in the world and have the entire day ahead of you. Okay, so I’m biased.. doesn’t mean I’m wrong ;) Lace up your sneakers -there’s going to be lots of walking- and head over to the Edinburgh Larder for breakfast. It’s one of my favorite spots to start the day. It’s tucked down Blackfriars Street, a side street off the Royal Mile near the Radisson, and surprisingly, not overtaken by tourists..yet. The space is small with only a handful of tables, so try to get there early. If you’re lucky, you’ll score a window seat. I’ve spent quite a few mornings nestled up in here with a book while enjoying my morning coffee and breakfast. They have a great menu and source their produce locally.
Once you finish up, take some time to explore Old Town and its many side streets and closes. A close is a term referring to an alleyway and Edinburgh is littered with them. They shoot off the Royal Mile, allowing alternate shortcuts throughout the city. Creeping down alleyways doesn’t sound particularly inviting, but in Edinburgh- it’s magic. The city is an absolute maze and it’s so much fun finding your way through it. At some point, make sure to head down Cockburn Street to the Princes Street Gardens and Victoria Street into the Grassmarket. Cockburn Street can be found almost directly across the Royal Mile from the Larder. It’s a curvy, cobblestone hill lined with the absolute cutest shops. You may have already walked up it from Waverley Station, but this time, you can actually enjoy it without dragging your bags and wishing hills and cobblestones were outlawed in cities. Once at the bottom, you’ll see the train station on your right and the gardens on your left. The busy street straight ahead and parallel to the Royal Mile behind you, is Princes Street. This street starts New Town and like you can probably guess, has a lot of modern shops and some “newer” architecture. If you’re interested in some shopping, this is the area. You can find anything from cheap souvenir shops to H&M and Apple stores. And don’t forget to swing through Jenners, a posh department store that’s been in its current location since it was founded in 1838. -But back to the gardens. The Princes Street Gardens actually divides New Town and Old Town and was once a lake of the town’s sewage. Now it’s a gorgeous, amply fertilized, blossoming garden. Funny how that works. Not only is this a beautiful and peaceful walk, but it also allows you to get some great views and photos of the Edinburgh Castle. As you wander through the garden, you’ll notice the Victorian Gothic Scott Monument up against Princes Street and actually across from Jenners. The monument honors the writer, Sir Walter Scott, and it’s 288 steps to the top can be climbed for an entry fee. If climbing the tower is high on your list, note that strict crowd controls have been implemented, restricting the entry to 24 people an hour.
Continue making your way through the garden and eventually follow the trail that winds around, hugging castle rock. This will spit you out onto the backside of the Grassmarket. Saves you a bit of time from backtracking and avoids the hill back up Cockburn. Grassmarket is a little open square just off the Royal mile with an array of restaurants and pubs. Depending on the day of week, an outdoor market may even be set up. If you’re a fan of thrift shops, don’t leave Grassmarket before stopping into Armstrongs. It’s my personal favorite shop in the city. For more on Edinburgh Thrift Shopping, check out my post, Edinburgh Charity Shops. Victoria Street is the sweetest little winding road with colorful shops linking the Grassmarket and the George IV Bridge Road and it’s an absolute must. It’s one of my favorite streets, and although every other tourist may feel the same way about it, I still can’t shake my love for it. You’ll feel like you’re wandering Diagon Alley with your back to school check list- In fact, it’s actually said to have been the inspiration behind the famous wizarding alley. Pro Tip: Before leaving Victoria Street, head up the small passageway of stairs near the Oink Restaurant. This leads you up to a landing of restaurants and the Royal Mile just ahead. But I’m sending you up for the view of Victoria Street. It’s a great spot for photographs. Continue on to the Main Street, George IV Bridge, and hang a right. Hope Victoria Street got you having all the Harry Potter feels because next stop is lunch and we’re going to Elephant House.
Afternoon
Elephant House is the location where JK Rowling wrote the second and third Harry Potter books. It’s become a pretty big tourist trap with lines out the door, but I always end up stopping in for a pot of tea and some sort of delicious treat. The cafe is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner- so if lunch doesn’t work for your schedule, you can try stopping in another time. Get in line to place your order and make sure to be seated in the back. Since it’s become a popular destination, you may end up sharing a table or being sat at one of their couches. If you’re lucky, you’ll get a table by the window. Out the window is the most perfect view of the Edinburgh Castle high above the city with Greyfriars Kirkyard and the Grassmarket below. If you have time afterwards, wonder the Greyfriars Kirkyard and keep a look out for some Harry Potter names. I’ve found the Moodie and McGonagall graves, but haven’t seen the Thomas Riddell one yet. Take note of the little statue of the Skye Terrier outside the cemetery entrance as well. Known as ‘Greyfriars Bobby’, the pup become known in the 19th century when he spent 14 years guarding his owner’s grave until he finally died himself. To find Bobby and the entrance to the cemetery, turn right out of the Elephant House, continue down George IV Bridge Road for just a few minutes and you can’t miss them. If you aren’t a big Harry Potter fan, I’m sorry for all the HP suggestions.. and that you’ll never know true joy. But, anyway.. skip the Elephant House and go to lunch at Under the Stairs. It’s become one of my favorite spots after a local brought me one night. It’s a great place for evening drinks, but they have terrific food and open at noon. It’s right under the Elephant House actually. Hang the sharp right at Greyfriars Bobby and head down- it’s on the right tucked under some stairs if you didn’t guess that already.
At this point, you may be exhausted. If so, head back to your airbnb to chill or head to Bow Bar on Victoria for a proper pint. Hey, it’s afternoon and you’re in Scotland! If you’re still full of energy, head back to the Royal Mile. Turn left from George IV Bridge Road and head up to the Edinburgh Castle. I’ve been to Edinburgh maybe 12-13 times with each trip varying from a day to three weeks. I probably shouldn’t admit this, but with all the time I’ve spent there, I have never toured the Edinburgh Castle. Initially, I think it was the cost of the tour that deterred me. I was backpacking my first time around and being frugal with whatever money I had. Then, I think it was a time thing, and then choosing between different tours, and I just kinda never did it and never thought about it again. But if you want to do a tour of the castle, now is the time. You can book online via their website or buy tickets at the castle. It costs 19 pound 50 and the tours go every half hour in summer and every hour in winter. Otherwise, simply head up to the sloping Esplanade (the forecourt) for photos and a view overlooking the city. You can access the Esplanade for free. When you’re ready, head back down the Royal Mile for The Real Mary King Close tour. You’ll pass the St. Giles Cathedral on your right and be able to get some photos and spit on the Heart of Midlothian. Yes, spit. The Heart of Midlothian is a heart made up into the cobblestone out of cobblestone. So it’s definitely easy to miss. And spitting on it when passing is a tradition going back centuries. Supposedly, it’ll bring you good luck. When you’re mouth is all dry and you can’t muster up anymore spit, continue down the Royal Mile until you get to The Real Mary King Close storefront- it’s not far from the cathedral. The tour is very organized, professionally run, and completely staged- all of which typically deters me. But there’s something about this tour that has me coming back nearly every time I’m in Edinburgh. Remember what a close is? If not, it’s a small alleyway. Although they’re throughout the city, there used to be even more of them. Some were demolished for roads and building, and others, such as the Mary King Close, were sealed up, forgotten, and buildings went up on top of them- basically, leaving an underground city. Today, the famous close is open to visitors and I’m completely fascinated every time I take the tour. The guides, dressed in 17th century clothing, bring you underground into a labyrinth of rooms and alleys, talking about their lives and way of life within the close. You learn about the Black Plague and the impact it had on the city, and how Mary Queen of Scots was arrested in the very close itself. It’s just super cool. Tickets run 16 pound 50 and tours start every 15 minutes. If you’re visiting in summer, you may want to book ahead. You can do it online 24 hours out as well.
Evening
Out of the dark, maze-like underground and straight into open spaces and fresh air! We’re heading down the Royal Mile to hike up Arthur’s Seat. Make your way down the Royal Mile until you reach the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Queen’s official residence. If you have time, you can schedule a tour and go inside! From here, hang a right and head towards the base of the hill. You’ll find the trail. Take notice of the Parliament building as you hang that right. It sits across the street from the palace and contrasts Old Town with its super modern style. There was quite a lot of uproar from locals about the architecture when it was first built and seems to still be a controversial subject.
If you haven’t been to Edinburgh, the north and east of the city is surrounded by a body of water known as the Firth of Forth. It’s what links Edinburgh to the North Sea. If you head east from Old Town, you’ll hit Arthur’s Seat and the Salisbury Crags before reaching the water on the other side. North, leads you through New Town, down Leith Walk and into Leith, the city’s port. The geography briefing is only to give you an idea of the view you’ll be staring out at once you reach the top of Arthur’s Seat. Don’t worry- you aren’t being quizzed. Arthur’s Seat is the hill and the Crags is the cliff. Most people (probably just tourists) refer to the entire area as Arthur’s Seat- and if you ask my sister, she’ll tell you it’s “Arthur’s sofa”.. and she’s not joking. The hike is straight forward- it’s not an easy stroll, but definitely doable for anyone. I’m not the slightest bit in shape and I’ve done it a handful of times. The view is worth the occasional huffing and puffing- I promise. Once at the top, you’ll look out at Edinburgh Castle and the gorgeous old rooftops of Old Town. You can see out to Leith and the Firth of Forth bridge crossing the body of water. And you may have past the Palace of Holyroodhouse on your way up, but you’ll also be able to get a good view of the Queen’s official residence from above. You really just feel on top of the world and it’s amazing seeing Edinburgh from this angle.
If you’re interested in walking, but this sounds a tad strenuous, you can head up Calton Hill instead. Calton Hill sits just north of Arthur’s Seat on the New Town side of the city- you can head east down Princes Street and straight up the hill from there. It’s a shorter walk (which means more time to play with) and a bit easier on the ole knees with a cobblestone street and stairs (with handrails!). The hill is home to several important monuments in Edinburgh, including the National Monument and Nelson Monument- both of which are gorgeous and prominent features of the Edinburgh skyline. Much like the view from Arthur’s Seat, the view from the hill is breathtaking. I really urge you to fit one of these walks into your schedule. And if you have the time, do both! Although similar, the views are slightly different and allow you to see different parts of the city.
Hope you worked up an appetite! If you summited the sofa, head back up the Royal Mile and look for a close just past Cockburn street on your right hand side called “Advocate’s Close”. Head on down. If you opted for Calton Hill, head back to Cockburn Street, just passed the train Station. As you start up Cockburn, Advocate’s Close will be on your right hand side, starting with steps. Whatever direction you’re coming from, The Devil’s Advocate is hard to miss. If you’re a whisky fan, you’re in luck. If you’re a cocktail fan, this place has you covered. If you like good food, a nice atmosphere, great service, and simply want to drink, here.you.areeeee. Considering it is a great place, see about making a reservation- especially in summer or on weekends. Before being sat upstairs, check if one of the few tables to the right of the steps is open. It’s a small hall back to the kitchen and bathroom, I believe, but it’s dimly lit with candles and feels cavelike and romantic. Last time we were here, we ordered quite a few whiskies. Our server was awesome to chat with and even recommended us checking out Amber Restaurant afterwards for an even bigger whisky selection. Turns out, Amber Restaurant is the Scotch Whisky Experience restaurant located on the Royal Mile, and you don’t have to do the experience to go sit at their bar. They have A BOOK of all their whiskies and it’s impressive and amazing and AFFORDABLE. So, if you’re a whisky fan, head there after dinner. Amber closes by 9, so don’t dilly dally.
Close down the bar and run down to catch the FREE Ghost Tour starting at 9:30. The tour meets at 154 High Street (same road as the Royal Mile) and although it’s free, please don’t show up without enough money for a tip. The guides lead you through the city at night for an hour and a half telling ghost stories and tales that’ll make your skin crawl. It’s definitely one of my favorite things to do.
Once you've had your fill of scotch and ghosts, it’s only appropriate you end your night in a proper Scottish pub with music. And The Royal Oak is the place. Located on Infirmary Street- riiiiight off South Bridge, the pub is a cozy spot with limited seating, but the best kind of atmosphere. The bar is maybe 15 feet right inside the door with a few tables, chairs, to the left. Musicians sit amongst customers singing and strumming to old Scottish folk songs, while drinking their beers in between breaths. There’s also a room downstairs with its own bar. It’s not always open, but worth checking out- especially if there isn’t any music upstairs. Get a real ale at the bar and by the end of the night, you’ll be singing along! For a full list of my favorite bars, check out my post, Where to Drink in Edinburgh!