Posts tagged scotland
24 Hours Edinburgh

Oddly, the more I seem to know a city, the harder time I have writing up 24 hour itineraries. It’s almost this feeling of guilt having to decide if a place is going to “make the cut”or not. Edinburgh is definitely a challenge for me. Being my favorite city, I want to tell you to never come for just 24 hours. But I also know that’s just how it works sometimes and if you only have a day, you want to make the most of it. In my 24 hour itineraries for European cities, I typically recommend places mostly in the Old Towns. I feel they have a lot of character and the history alone is a giant wow factor. That being said, if you have longer than 24 hours, I highly suggest exploring outside Old Town. Wander through New Town, down to Leith, check out the charity shops in Stockbridge- there’s really so much to see and explore. But since we’re on a time restraint, we’ll be spending most our time in the Old Town. It’ll give you a feel of the medieval city and staying put in Old Town will help you see more instead of wasting time with taxis and public transportation. I suggest booking yourself an Airbnb or hotel in the area so you can do your exploring on foot. If you come into the Waverley train station, you can easily walk up to Old Town via one of the few alleyways of stairs or simply head up Cockburn Street. If you’re coming in from the airport, just head outside Arrivals and catch the Airlink 100 bus into the city. Tickets can be purchased from the booth next to the bus and will run you 4 pound 50. The bus will drop you off right at Waverley Train Station.

If you don’t have time to read the entire post, here’s the short list and top recommendations. The itinerary doesn’t fit all of these sights in, but rather, may give options:

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To Do / See:

Princes Street Gardens

  • Scott Monument

Wander Old Town

  • Royal Mile

    • St. Giles Cathedral

    • Heart of Midlothian

  • Cockburn Street

  • Victoria Street

  • Grassmarket

Greyfriars Kirkyard

  • Greyfriars Bobby

Edinburgh Castle

Mary King Close

Arthur’s Seat / Salisbury Crags

  • Palace of Holyroodhouse

  • Scottish Parliament

Calton Hill

  • National Monument

  • Nelson Monument

Free Ghost Tour

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TO Eat / Drink:

Edinburgh Larder

Elephant House

Under the Stairs

Devils Advocate

Amber

Royal Oak

Morning

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Rise and shineee! You’re in the most beautiful country in the world and have the entire day ahead of you. Okay, so I’m biased.. doesn’t mean I’m wrong ;) Lace up your sneakers -there’s going to be lots of walking- and head over to the Edinburgh Larder for breakfast. It’s one of my favorite spots to start the day. It’s tucked down Blackfriars Street, a side street off the Royal Mile near the Radisson, and surprisingly, not overtaken by tourists..yet. The space is small with only a handful of tables, so try to get there early. If you’re lucky, you’ll score a window seat. I’ve spent quite a few mornings nestled up in here with a book while enjoying my morning coffee and breakfast. They have a great menu and source their produce locally.

Once you finish up, take some time to explore Old Town and its many side streets and closes. A close is a term referring to an alleyway and Edinburgh is littered with them. They shoot off the Royal Mile, allowing alternate shortcuts throughout the city. Creeping down alleyways doesn’t sound particularly inviting, but in Edinburgh- it’s magic. The city is an absolute maze and it’s so much fun finding your way through it. At some point, make sure to head down Cockburn Street to the Princes Street Gardens and Victoria Street into the Grassmarket. Cockburn Street can be found almost directly across the Royal Mile from the Larder. It’s a curvy, cobblestone hill lined with the absolute cutest shops. You may have already walked up it from Waverley Station, but this time, you can actually enjoy it without dragging your bags and wishing hills and cobblestones were outlawed in cities. Once at the bottom, you’ll see the train station on your right and the gardens on your left. The busy street straight ahead and parallel to the Royal Mile behind you, is Princes Street. This street starts New Town and like you can probably guess, has a lot of modern shops and some “newer” architecture. If you’re interested in some shopping, this is the area. You can find anything from cheap souvenir shops to H&M and Apple stores. And don’t forget to swing through Jenners, a posh department store that’s been in its current location since it was founded in 1838. -But back to the gardens. The Princes Street Gardens actually divides New Town and Old Town and was once a lake of the town’s sewage. Now it’s a gorgeous, amply fertilized, blossoming garden. Funny how that works. Not only is this a beautiful and peaceful walk, but it also allows you to get some great views and photos of the Edinburgh Castle. As you wander through the garden, you’ll notice the Victorian Gothic Scott Monument up against Princes Street and actually across from Jenners. The monument honors the writer, Sir Walter Scott, and it’s 288 steps to the top can be climbed for an entry fee. If climbing the tower is high on your list, note that strict crowd controls have been implemented, restricting the entry to 24 people an hour.

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Continue making your way through the garden and eventually follow the trail that winds around, hugging castle rock. This will spit you out onto the backside of the Grassmarket. Saves you a bit of time from backtracking and avoids the hill back up Cockburn. Grassmarket is a little open square just off the Royal mile with an array of restaurants and pubs. Depending on the day of week, an outdoor market may even be set up. If you’re a fan of thrift shops, don’t leave Grassmarket before stopping into Armstrongs. It’s my personal favorite shop in the city. For more on Edinburgh Thrift Shopping, check out my post, Edinburgh Charity Shops. Victoria Street is the sweetest little winding road with colorful shops linking the Grassmarket and the George IV Bridge Road and it’s an absolute must. It’s one of my favorite streets, and although every other tourist may feel the same way about it, I still can’t shake my love for it. You’ll feel like you’re wandering Diagon Alley with your back to school check list- In fact, it’s actually said to have been the inspiration behind the famous wizarding alley. Pro Tip: Before leaving Victoria Street, head up the small passageway of stairs near the Oink Restaurant. This leads you up to a landing of restaurants and the Royal Mile just ahead. But I’m sending you up for the view of Victoria Street. It’s a great spot for photographs. Continue on to the Main Street, George IV Bridge, and hang a right. Hope Victoria Street got you having all the Harry Potter feels because next stop is lunch and we’re going to Elephant House.

Afternoon

Elephant House is the location where JK Rowling wrote the second and third Harry Potter books. It’s become a pretty big tourist trap with lines out the door, but I always end up stopping in for a pot of tea and some sort of delicious treat. The cafe is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner- so if lunch doesn’t work for your schedule, you can try stopping in another time. Get in line to place your order and make sure to be seated in the back. Since it’s become a popular destination, you may end up sharing a table or being sat at one of their couches. If you’re lucky, you’ll get a table by the window. Out the window is the most perfect view of the Edinburgh Castle high above the city with Greyfriars Kirkyard and the Grassmarket below. If you have time afterwards, wonder the Greyfriars Kirkyard and keep a look out for some Harry Potter names. I’ve found the Moodie and McGonagall graves, but haven’t seen the Thomas Riddell one yet. Take note of the little statue of the Skye Terrier outside the cemetery entrance as well. Known as ‘Greyfriars Bobby’, the pup become known in the 19th century when he spent 14 years guarding his owner’s grave until he finally died himself. To find Bobby and the entrance to the cemetery, turn right out of the Elephant House, continue down George IV Bridge Road for just a few minutes and you can’t miss them. If you aren’t a big Harry Potter fan, I’m sorry for all the HP suggestions.. and that you’ll never know true joy. But, anyway.. skip the Elephant House and go to lunch at Under the Stairs. It’s become one of my favorite spots after a local brought me one night. It’s a great place for evening drinks, but they have terrific food and open at noon. It’s right under the Elephant House actually. Hang the sharp right at Greyfriars Bobby and head down- it’s on the right tucked under some stairs if you didn’t guess that already.

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At this point, you may be exhausted. If so, head back to your airbnb to chill or head to Bow Bar on Victoria for a proper pint. Hey, it’s afternoon and you’re in Scotland! If you’re still full of energy, head back to the Royal Mile. Turn left from George IV Bridge Road and head up to the Edinburgh Castle. I’ve been to Edinburgh maybe 12-13 times with each trip varying from a day to three weeks. I probably shouldn’t admit this, but with all the time I’ve spent there, I have never toured the Edinburgh Castle. Initially, I think it was the cost of the tour that deterred me. I was backpacking my first time around and being frugal with whatever money I had. Then, I think it was a time thing, and then choosing between different tours, and I just kinda never did it and never thought about it again. But if you want to do a tour of the castle, now is the time. You can book online via their website or buy tickets at the castle. It costs 19 pound 50 and the tours go every half hour in summer and every hour in winter. Otherwise, simply head up to the sloping Esplanade (the forecourt) for photos and a view overlooking the city. You can access the Esplanade for free. When you’re ready, head back down the Royal Mile for The Real Mary King Close tour. You’ll pass the St. Giles Cathedral on your right and be able to get some photos and spit on the Heart of Midlothian. Yes, spit. The Heart of Midlothian is a heart made up into the cobblestone out of cobblestone. So it’s definitely easy to miss. And spitting on it when passing is a tradition going back centuries. Supposedly, it’ll bring you good luck. When you’re mouth is all dry and you can’t muster up anymore spit, continue down the Royal Mile until you get to The Real Mary King Close storefront- it’s not far from the cathedral. The tour is very organized, professionally run, and completely staged- all of which typically deters me. But there’s something about this tour that has me coming back nearly every time I’m in Edinburgh. Remember what a close is? If not, it’s a small alleyway. Although they’re throughout the city, there used to be even more of them. Some were demolished for roads and building, and others, such as the Mary King Close, were sealed up, forgotten, and buildings went up on top of them- basically, leaving an underground city. Today, the famous close is open to visitors and I’m completely fascinated every time I take the tour. The guides, dressed in 17th century clothing, bring you underground into a labyrinth of rooms and alleys, talking about their lives and way of life within the close. You learn about the Black Plague and the impact it had on the city, and how Mary Queen of Scots was arrested in the very close itself. It’s just super cool. Tickets run 16 pound 50 and tours start every 15 minutes. If you’re visiting in summer, you may want to book ahead. You can do it online 24 hours out as well.

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Evening

Out of the dark, maze-like underground and straight into open spaces and fresh air! We’re heading down the Royal Mile to hike up Arthur’s Seat. Make your way down the Royal Mile until you reach the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Queen’s official residence. If you have time, you can schedule a tour and go inside! From here, hang a right and head towards the base of the hill. You’ll find the trail. Take notice of the Parliament building as you hang that right. It sits across the street from the palace and contrasts Old Town with its super modern style. There was quite a lot of uproar from locals about the architecture when it was first built and seems to still be a controversial subject.

If you haven’t been to Edinburgh, the north and east of the city is surrounded by a body of water known as the Firth of Forth. It’s what links Edinburgh to the North Sea. If you head east from Old Town, you’ll hit Arthur’s Seat and the Salisbury Crags before reaching the water on the other side. North, leads you through New Town, down Leith Walk and into Leith, the city’s port. The geography briefing is only to give you an idea of the view you’ll be staring out at once you reach the top of Arthur’s Seat. Don’t worry- you aren’t being quizzed. Arthur’s Seat is the hill and the Crags is the cliff. Most people (probably just tourists) refer to the entire area as Arthur’s Seat- and if you ask my sister, she’ll tell you it’s “Arthur’s sofa”.. and she’s not joking. The hike is straight forward- it’s not an easy stroll, but definitely doable for anyone. I’m not the slightest bit in shape and I’ve done it a handful of times. The view is worth the occasional huffing and puffing- I promise. Once at the top, you’ll look out at Edinburgh Castle and the gorgeous old rooftops of Old Town. You can see out to Leith and the Firth of Forth bridge crossing the body of water. And you may have past the Palace of Holyroodhouse on your way up, but you’ll also be able to get a good view of the Queen’s official residence from above. You really just feel on top of the world and it’s amazing seeing Edinburgh from this angle.

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If you’re interested in walking, but this sounds a tad strenuous, you can head up Calton Hill instead. Calton Hill sits just north of Arthur’s Seat on the New Town side of the city- you can head east down Princes Street and straight up the hill from there. It’s a shorter walk (which means more time to play with) and a bit easier on the ole knees with a cobblestone street and stairs (with handrails!). The hill is home to several important monuments in Edinburgh, including the National Monument and Nelson Monument- both of which are gorgeous and prominent features of the Edinburgh skyline. Much like the view from Arthur’s Seat, the view from the hill is breathtaking. I really urge you to fit one of these walks into your schedule. And if you have the time, do both! Although similar, the views are slightly different and allow you to see different parts of the city.

Hope you worked up an appetite! If you summited the sofa, head back up the Royal Mile and look for a close just past Cockburn street on your right hand side called “Advocate’s Close”. Head on down. If you opted for Calton Hill, head back to Cockburn Street, just passed the train Station. As you start up Cockburn, Advocate’s Close will be on your right hand side, starting with steps. Whatever direction you’re coming from, The Devil’s Advocate is hard to miss. If you’re a whisky fan, you’re in luck. If you’re a cocktail fan, this place has you covered. If you like good food, a nice atmosphere, great service, and simply want to drink, here.you.areeeee. Considering it is a great place, see about making a reservation- especially in summer or on weekends. Before being sat upstairs, check if one of the few tables to the right of the steps is open. It’s a small hall back to the kitchen and bathroom, I believe, but it’s dimly lit with candles and feels cavelike and romantic. Last time we were here, we ordered quite a few whiskies. Our server was awesome to chat with and even recommended us checking out Amber Restaurant afterwards for an even bigger whisky selection. Turns out, Amber Restaurant is the Scotch Whisky Experience restaurant located on the Royal Mile, and you don’t have to do the experience to go sit at their bar. They have A BOOK of all their whiskies and it’s impressive and amazing and AFFORDABLE. So, if you’re a whisky fan, head there after dinner. Amber closes by 9, so don’t dilly dally.

Close down the bar and run down to catch the FREE Ghost Tour starting at 9:30. The tour meets at 154 High Street (same road as the Royal Mile) and although it’s free, please don’t show up without enough money for a tip. The guides lead you through the city at night for an hour and a half telling ghost stories and tales that’ll make your skin crawl. It’s definitely one of my favorite things to do.

Once you've had your fill of scotch and ghosts, it’s only appropriate you end your night in a proper Scottish pub with music. And The Royal Oak is the place. Located on Infirmary Street- riiiiight off South Bridge, the pub is a cozy spot with limited seating, but the best kind of atmosphere. The bar is maybe 15 feet right inside the door with a few tables, chairs, to the left. Musicians sit amongst customers singing and strumming to old Scottish folk songs, while drinking their beers in between breaths. There’s also a room downstairs with its own bar. It’s not always open, but worth checking out- especially if there isn’t any music upstairs. Get a real ale at the bar and by the end of the night, you’ll be singing along! For a full list of my favorite bars, check out my post, Where to Drink in Edinburgh!

Self Guided Outlander Tour
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Sing me a song of a lass that is gone, say, could that lass be I? Okay.. we all know the theme song and wish we were Claire (or Jaime), right?

For those of you that aren’t familiar with the show “Outlander”, it’s based on the books written by Diana J. Gabaldon. The story is about a woman from the 1940s that accidently goes back in time to 1700 Scotland. The Scots were fighting the English, proper medical care and sanitary conditions were not yet "a thing", men carried swords, and women- well, women weren’t considered much unless the men were hungry or.. hungry for something else.. Anyway, the show follows Claire through her wild adjustment and struggle to survive through the Jacobite uprisings. Not to mention, her lustful relationship with the hunky Highlander, Jaime Fraser. Kilt, sword, muscles and an absolute gentleman. Drooling just thinking about it. The story is definitely a great one and I absolutely recommend picking up the first book and giving it a try! Be warned- you'll probably get hooked.

The filming for the show takes place at various locations throughout Scotland. If you have limited time and hoping to see as much as you can without driving around the entire country though- you're in luck! You can easily take a day trip from Edinburgh or Glasgow and see quite a bit. Depending on how much time you hope to spend exploring the different locations and sites in between, you may even want to take two days. There are 7 stops making up a loop that bring you through the ancient Scottish Kingdom of Fife, near the city of Perth and right past Stirling. All of which are worth spending some time and exploring if you have the interest and time. Stopping off to see the famous Kelpies is another noteworthy site. So there's loads to do in addition to Outlander sites. However, if you're looking to strictly keep your touring to Outlander- you can do that as well!

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Below you will find a list of stops and their significance to the show. Choose which locations are your must visits and narrow down your choices for your own self guided tour! Driving in Scotland can be intimidating, but you'll really be able to see more this way.

Hopetoun House - Home of the Duke of Sandringham

Hopetoun House is an estate that actually has more than one filming location on the property. The main house is an impressive structure built between 1699-1701 and is a beautiful sight just to admire. In the show, the house was used as the home of the Duke of Sandringham. Scenes were filmed in the Red Drawing Room and additionally in the rear of the house on the lawn. You may recognize the property as the setting where Jaime and Jack Randal have their gripping swordfight. Or where the Duke himself is set to have his own dual with the head of the McDonald clan. Behind the Stables Tearoom, you will also find a courtyard used as a Parisian Street. The house is open to the public from Easter to the last Sunday in September. Only a 37 minute drive from Edinburgh, it makes for a great first stop on your Outlander tour!

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Midhope Castle - Lallybroch

Located on the Hopetoun House Estate, Midhope Castle is a short drive from the Duke's crib. To access the Midhope Castle property though, you will need a parking pass. This can be purchased for 10 pounds either at the Hopetoun Farm Shop or the Hopetoun House Ticket Kiosk, which are both a 5 minute drive away. Once you have your pass displayed and you're all set, channel your inner Claire and walk up the drive pretending you're walking alongside Jaime as he brings you to your new home. *swoon* Sadly, you can't enter the castle- you'll notice that the interior hasn't been kept up through the years. But, take some time wandering around and pretending the year is 1743. Maybe red coats are approaching the property or Jaimie and Jenny are desperately trying to free themselves from the hands of Jack Randal. From April to September, you can visit the property from 9-5. October-December is 10-3.

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Dysart Harbour - Le Havre, France

Outlander starts season two in France. And how lucky are you that you get to add a visit to France into your Scotland trip! The location of Le havre, where we meet the Comte St. Germain however, is in fact, filmed at Dysart Harbour. You can still tell everyone you swung by France for a bit though. Walk around the harbour, take some pictures and avoid the smallpox! 

Falkland - Inverness

Heading North from Dysart Harbour, you'll eventually come upon the village of Falkland and it is adorable! I actually stayed here for about a week in 2017 before I even realized there was an Outlander connection. Subsequently, I was even reading Outlander at the time. So I'm sure I looked like a crazy fan without knowing it- and jump to nearly 2 years later and I'm writing an Outlander tour blog post realizing maybe I am a crazy fan afterall. Hm. Anyway, Falkland is depicted as Inverness in the show. Claire and Frank have their B+B right in town and Claire strolls the streets eyeing a vase that she likes in a shop window. The village is small so it doesn't take long to explore, but there's also plenty to do if you decide to make a trip out of it. Pop into Campbells Cafe for lunch right in the center of the village and try to get a seat near the window. From here, you can look out and imagine Jaimie staring up at Claire while in her B+B in season 1. If you have the time and are interested, check out the Falkland Palace and gardens. I really recommend spending some time in Falkland and taking advantage of the walking trails. Pillars of Hercules, an organic farm shop and cafe was one of my favorite places to go. Get some homemade soup and a turmeric latte! If you're looking to stay awhile, check out Thistle House, right in the center of town. 

Doune Castle - Castle Leoch

Onto Doune Castle- err, I mean, Castle Leoch, home to Colum McKenzie and his clan! This location was used not only for Outlander, but you also may recognize it from Monty Python, "run away run away!" anddd even Game of Thrones. You can wonder the exterior of the castle and walk down to the creek, but the coolest part is you can go inside this one. And even better- there's a guided audio tour. I'm not always the biggest fan of audio tours, but this one was great! They give you an historical account of each room, but it also includes filming details, which is awesome if you're on this tour specifically for that reason. This visit is definitely a must if you love Outlander. Sam Heughan even narrates the audio parts about Outlander. I know I have your attention now.. But seriously, it's a great tour and really informative. At the end of your tour, you can even head over to the shop and throw on a costume for pictures. Talk about really channeling your inner Claire. The cost to get in is 6 pounds and that includes your audio guide. The grounds are open from 9:30-5:30 April-September and 10-4 October-March.

Culross - village of Cairnsmuir

Remember that time Claire and Geillis were accused of being witches? Or when Jaimie helped the child who was caught stealing and punished by having his ear nailed to a post? Well, all that happened in the village of Cairnsmuir, which is actually called Culross. The village is absolutely charming and transports you back in time the minute you step into it. The houses and cobblestone streets look like they haven't changed for centuries. For the show, the buildings were painted a grey to match the time period, but they have since been reverted back to their white facades. Head to the Mercat Cross area and you'll immediately recognize where you are. Just try to avoid being accused of being a witch.

Blackness Castle - Fort William

Built in the 1400s, Blackness Castle was the filming location for Fort William. It was here that Jaimie received his lashes from Captain Black Jack Randal and later broke into the fortress to save Claire at the end of season 1. With its giant walls, Blackness Castle was the perfect choice to portray an imposing fortress. Situated on the south shore of the Firth of Forth, the structure is often referred to as "the ship that never sailed" because of its interested ship like shape. In addition to being used as a castle, the establishment was also a state prison for some time. You may also recognize it from films such as Hamlet or Doomsday. Entry is 6 pound and you can visit from 9:30-5:30 April-September and 10-4 October-March.

Linlithgow Palace - Wentworth Prison

15 miles west of Edinburgh, you'll find the great Linlithgow Palace, which was used as Wentworth Prison in Outlander. We all know what happened there and we all wish we didn't. A once thriving castle used as prominent residence for Scottish royalty in the 15th and 16th centuries, Linlithgow Palace is now a ruin and a sight for visitors to explore. There's plenty to see and admire, including the courtyard. If you're obsessed with Scottish history like I am, you'll be intrigued to know that Linlithgow Palace was also the birthplace of Mary Stewart, aka Mary Queen of Scots. Pretty cool stuff!

The above suggested stops are laid out creating a loop (give or take) with a little back tracking after Hopetoun House to get over the Firth of Forth and over to Culross after Doune Castle. Like mentioned above, take as much time as you need/want and just enjoy it! You can spend as little as a day cutting a few visits out and it's just as exciting. Have fun and good luck driving! If you aren't comfortable driving on the other side of the road, claim you don't know how to drive stick and have your friend do it.. it works, believe me ;)

Edinburgh Charity Shops
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Every time I go to Edinburgh, I have to put aside time to shop. And I’m not talking about the kind of shopping you do in New Town or on Princes Street. I’m talking about charity shops: the ultimate thrift shopping! These shops are everywhere in Edinburgh and whether you're an avid thrifter or not, you can definitely find something you can't live without! I first discovered Armstrongs in Grassmarket back in 2006 when I went to Edinburgh on my FIRST EVER backpacking adventure. At the time, I just thought Armstrongs was a one of a kind magical place and it ended there. I didn’t realize that not only is there more than one Armstrongs, but also that there are loads of charity shops throughout the entire city.

The charity shops in Edinburgh all benefit different organizations and what's better than shopping and contributing to a good cause? Like their names suggest, The British Heart Foundation funds research to better understand and prevent diseases and health conditions relating to the heart and blood flow, while Shelter shops contribute to helping the homeless and providing adequate shelter to British citizens. Places such as Barnardo's are less clear in their name but contribute to the welfare of children, helping those affected by disadvantages or abuse. Various charity shops target cancer, animal cruelty, hospice, red cross, salvation army, and the list goes on. So if you're all about seeing your money go to a good place, start with charity shops for sure! 

Maybe shopping used and sometimes dated clothing and merchandise is not for you. And if so, that's cool. But most of the time, these places are only reselling items in great condition, and sometimes never even worn with the tags still on! I always feel like I hit the jackpot when I find those items. But, depending on the charity shop, you can expect to find different kinds of items. St Columba's Hospice down on Leith Walk has a variety of kitchen goods and fabric, whereas Shelter Bookshop in Stockbridge offers an awesome selection of secondhand books. Obviously, since these shops rely on donations and what is being dropped off, their inventory changes quite a bit. But once you start frequenting these shops, you get idea what kinds of goodies you may find. 

Newington & Old Town

Newington is amazing if you're on the hunt for bargains and looking to do some charity shop hopping. Follow Nicolson down far enough from South Bridge and you’ve hit the jackpot! This area is right in Edinburgh University territory, so it's the perfect spot if you're looking for bargains and more modern clothing. Consider the fact that college students are probably donating the clothes they don't like or never wear that are in great condition, but alsooo picking through all the great finds on the shelves. So although I love shopping in Newington, it tends to be hit or miss. I did find a wool peacoat on Nicolson for £4 once and I bragged about it for months. So, there is that. The quantity of shops really makes it worth it though. There's seriously a cluster of shops that are nearly right next door to each other, making the experience so much more fun! Don't forget to hit up Armstrongs down at the end! There are three in the city and all pretty close to one another, so if you're just exploring Newington and Old Town, you can stop by all three. I have to say, there’s really nothing like the Armstrongs in Grassmarket though. It reminds me of a costume shop, which is probably why I love it so much. It's a great place to go if you're looking for vintage. Clothing is organized by decade, which is super cool! Last time I was there, I left with a dress from the 60s, a dress from the 70s, andddd a super cute kilt... I couldn't resist it, okay?! The prices don't always reflect "thrifty" here, but some of their gems are definitely worth the extra quid. If you're in the theatre, make sure you swing by here! Grassmarket is a pretty high traffic area so you may not have much luck with everyday clothing since it's picked over so much, but the beauty of charity shops is you never know! 

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Morningside

If you're looking for big brands and items that may be considered more posh, head over to Morningside. This area was described to me by a local as, "where ladies lunch" and it's certainly a good description. The financially fortunate reside here so you can expect to find higher end dontations in the charity shops. Fashionable quality items that have been lightly worn and in terrific shape are often found here. British brands such as Burberry and Jaeger tend to make normal appearances so if that sounds like it's up your alley, Morningside is definitely for you! Keep in mind though, the bigger the name tag, the bigger the price tag. You may not find the bargain prices in Morningside that you saw in Newington, but the items will absolutely be more upscale. Head over to Morningside Road for a cluster of shops right on top of each other. Morningside also has some great cafes, so make a day of it and stop for a cup of tea or lunch while you're out shopping. If you're a criossant fan, stop over at Bakery Andante and give one of their almond croissants a try! If you have the time, continue on to Bruntsfield. This neighborhood doesn't have as many charity shops, but their antique and privately owned shops are quite good. Make sure to check out Very Vintage. 

Stockbridge

If you're looking for a nice in between, check out Stockbridge. It's less hoity-toity than Morningside, but still, an area that people tend to be financially secure. So basically, the items can be a little bit nicer than what you may find in Newington, but maybe with similar prices. Best of both worlds really. Great deals, awesome stuff! The coolest part about Stockbridge is the amount of shops (like over a dozen!) and like Newington and Morningside, there's such a close proximity between all of them! You'll find the majority of the shops right on Raeburn Place, which is the main street down Stockbridge. If you're in the market for a secondhand wedding dress, definitely don't miss the British Red Cross shop. They have so many gorgeous dresses, it'll make you contemplate buying one for shits. I read about a woman marrying her cat once.. she probably impulsively bought a dress here and just wanted an excuse to wear it. I don't blame her. Shelter Bookshop is incredible if youre a bookworm. I try to resist buying books while traveling since they add so much weight to your luggage, but I couldnt help myself when I found one from the 19th century. I don't have any excuse for the others I bought.. It's a great place to pick up traveling books as well. If you loved the vintage clothing at Armstrongs, check out the upscale boutiques down on St. Stephans Street. For the record, these are not Charity shops, but rather privately owned clothing stores. I recommend stopping over at Elaine's Vintage Clothing though- it's an awesome shop and you can find some really cool pieces! If you need a break in between shops, stop over at Hectors for a bloody mary. It'll be the perfect pick me up to get you through the rest of your shopping.

Once I realized these shops were everywhere, I couldn’t explore a new neighborhood without looking up where the charity shops were located. I may have become a little obsessed, but once you experience the Edinburgh Charity Shops for yourself, you’ll understand. Definitely, don't limit yourself to these three areas because charity shops are really located throughout the city. Exploring Newington & Old Town, Morningside and Stockbridge will give you a well-rounded experience though and probably get you hooked. If you’re looking for more necessary sites and things to do, check out my post 24 Hours Edinburgh. I crammed all the musts into a full day that you can stretch over your visit if you have the time. Have fun! :)

Must Try Breakfasts in Edinburgh
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The Edinburgh Larder - Old Town

Situated right off the Royal Mile and one street over from South Bridge, The Edinburgh Larder is a fantastic breakfast spot! The place is tiny, so try to get there early to snag a table. And if you're traveling with a big group, keep in mind that there isn't a lot of space. Luckily, I was traveling alone when I found The Edinburgh Larder and cozied up in the window seat. Delicious, high-quality ingredients that are locally sourced are used to make the most satisfying comfort food that'll leave you contemplating if you should just stay for lunch. If you don't have time for a sit-down breakfast, grab a freshly made baked good and a coffee for take away. (The coffee beans are locally roasted!) 

Spoon - Old Town

Down South Bridge where the road turns into Nicolson St, you'll find Spoon. The doorway is easy to miss since it's located on the second floor, but it's right in between a burger joint and a Middle Eastern specialty food store. Compared to the other breakfast spots on this list, Spoon has an open floor plan with loads of seating. An old wood floor, painted over in white with mismatched tables and local art up on the wall creates a relaxed, artsy vibe. The space is awesome if you have work to do, so don't forget your laptop or a good book. The food is awesome, I opted for scrambled eggs and smoked salmon on toast, which was SO GOOD. They have a variety of options though and serve lunch and dinner as well. Definitely try their homemade soup!

BlueBird Cafe - Bonnington

If you're staying in the Bonnington area, and even if you're not, Bluebird Cafe is a must! Its location near the Royal Botanic Gardens makes it a great place to stop before or after a visit through the gardens. The cafe is super small and cozy, which may mean you have to wait for a table, but it's worth it! The food is delicious and has a homecooked feel to it- probably a combination of everything being cooked fresh anddd the fact that the owner has a thing for them Southern states in America. Southern hospitality and food that makes your soul sing are definitely the inspiration here! Although you can expect to find hearty goodness like breakfast burritos and nachos on the menu, there are healthier, and even vegetarian options as well!

The Haven - Leith

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Located in Leith, The Haven is a fun cafe with quirky furniture and a cozy feel.  Grab the two comfy armchairs near the fireplace and pretend you're in your own Scottish cottage, feasting on all day breakfast and homemade scones! The counter is littered with all kinds of freshly baked goodies and although you'll try to resist the urge to overindulge, you'll probably fail. Don't worry, it happens to the best of us. The prices are crazy low, so whether you're on a budget or just appreciate saving a few quid, check this place out for sure! My sister and I couldn't resist a second cup of joe before heading out.. hence the cute photo of her in front of The Haven's cool street art. 

Roseleaf - Leith

Also included in my Edinburgh Bar post, Roseleaf is obviously a jack of all trades. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, drinks, tea, EVERYTHING. Food, ambiance, staff- this place is great. With two eating areas- the front bar room and back dining area, there's plenty of space to secure a table. The menu varies from a full Scottish breakfast to a smashed pea and goat cheese toast with poached eggs. Not only does Roseleaf bake their own bread in-house, but they also use sustainable and locally sourced ingredients. Like most of the places included on this list, the decor is unique and adds to the experience. Don't forget to order a "pottail" if you're looking for a breakfast with a punch!

Where to Drink in Edinburgh
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Scottish pubs are my absolute favorite! The atmosphere, the people, THE DRINKS, the music! I just love it all. There aren't too many places you can go that are usually crammed with locals who aren't afraid to start up a conversation with a stranger. There's just something special about sharing a pint with someone you just met and having a great conversation. Whether you're looking for a dram of scotch, a pint of real ale, or a beautifully crafted cocktail, these pubs should definitely be on your list to try! 

The Royal Oak

Right on the corner of South Bridge and Infirmary Street sits The Royal Oak. It's a must if you're looking for an authentic pub. The place itself is pretty small, which just adds to the experience. People are crammed in, mostly standing, and local musicians sit alongside customers, playing their instruments and enjoying their pints. Some people sing along to old Scottish tunes while others close their eyes and lose themselves to the music of their ancestors. The Royal Oak has a downstairs as well, but I dont believe it's always open. It may depend on the day or if they have a small gig scheduled. It's as small as the upstairs room though, hosting only a few tables and its own bar. Don't expect to find a fancy cocktail menu here. It's more of a beer or scotch kind of place. Regardless of which room you're in, or what you end up drinking, expect a cozy atmosphere filled with tradition, soul and booze. 

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Under The Stairs

Located on Merchant Street, near the Grassmarket, Under The Stairs is a great hidden gem! A local brought me here one night and I really fell in love with the place. The vibe is super chill and relaxed, but more refined than a traditional pub. Comfy arm chairs and sofas throughout the dimly lit space and local art decorating the walls make it feel super cozy and comfortable. Under The Stairs has an awesome, ecletic food menu as well, if you're looking to eat- and it's all droolworthy stuff! From snacking on a cheese or charcuterie board with your beverage of choice to a coursed dinner, you really can't go wrong! And the prices are super reasonable. They open at 3PM and stay open until midnight, with the exception of Friday and Saturday when they open at noon and close at 1AM. So either pop over for a nightcap or opt for a couple shared plates in the afternoon. 

Devils Advocate

This place is a whisky and gastro pub lover's dream! Tucked down Advocate's Close, The Devil's Advocate boasts an insane 300+ whisky list and an equally exciting food menu. Not only is its setting unique in that it's down an alleyway, but it's also inside an old Victorian Pump House. You walk into high ceilings, exosed stone and beautifully backbit liquor bottles luring you inside. Upstairs you'll find tables set for dining and an outdoor patio. On the main level however, there are a few booths tucked down a dimly lit hallway. See if they're available before heading upstairs. The Devil's Advocate opens for lunch so feel free to start your tasting day early! 

Amber Restaurant

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The Amber bar is located under The Whisky Experience on the Royal Mile, up near the castle. And I know what you're thinking, it's got to be packed with tourists paying premium prices for a novelty drink. But it's totally not! Surprisingly, the bar has probably the largest scotch collection in the city and not only are the prices reasonable, but they also serve your scotch with a pippette! Talk about proper scotch drinking ettiqutte! For those of you not familiar, the amount of water added to a scotch can drastically change the taste. A single drop of water can really open up the scotch and allows for different tasting notes to come through on the palette. Pippettes allow you to control just how much water you're adding in. Amber bar doesnt stay open late though, 8:30PM Sunday-Thursday and 9PM on Friday and Saturday. 

Bramble Bar

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Easy to miss, Bramble Bar is in New Town on the corner of Queen Street and Hanover Street on the lower level. The place is small and cozy and totally unique! This is the bar to visit if youre looking for a beautifully crafted cocktail. The bartenders definitely know what they're doing and your taste buds will be grateful for it! Expect your cocktails to look as good as they taste, with some being served in teacups that have stems. Talk about fun glassware! If you're a gin drinker, go ahead and check out their gin list! They even have rotating guest gins that change every month. Bramble Bar opens at 4PM and closes at 1AM everyday. With The Stand Comedy Club right down the street, Bramble Bar is a great place to come before or after a show. Or both, if you're smart. 

Roseleaf

If you're bougie and like your cocktails served in teapots, check out Roseleaf in Leith! Make sure to visit with a friend if you're hoping to order a "pot-tail" since theyre for 2+ people. The first time I visited Roseleaf, I was traveling alone. So it was the perfect excuse to come back when my sister was in town! Not only did we share a cocktail teapot, but we also split a few things off the food menu, including a beet burger and the macaroni and cheese. Hey, it's about balance, right? The beet burger was DELICIOUS and the mac n cheese had bacon, truffle and a crust... Enough said. They do have a lot of healthier options on the menu, but we don't have any willpower when it comes to pasta and cheese. Roseleaf opens in the morning, so it's a great place for lunch as well! 

Guildford Arms

Located near Waverley Station, down a side street off Princes, Guildford Arms is the perfect example of an old Victorian bar. The inside is gorgeous with its carved wood bar and etched glass windows. The carpeting is red with gold patterns, emphasizing the prim Victorian era. Cask ale hand pulls decorate the bartop and that's exactly what you should be drinking here! Sample a few until you find one you like. Take a seat at one of the small tables along the wall and people watch a bit or head up to the mezzanine level for the dining room if you're hungry. Considering its location, Guildford Arms is the perfect place to stop and grab a pint whether you're waiting for your train at Waverley or just finished checking out Calton Hill!